Book & Wine Reviews
Brian Freedman
So perhaps it’s not following the generally accepted protocol to review a book before the would-be reviewer has even read through to the last page, but I’m making the best in this case. Because this is a seriously entertaining and informative book. I will admit that the writing could be a bit stilted, but the story itself can keep you turning the page far past your bedtime. Basically, the title says it all: “Wine and War” relates the tale of the French wine industry during World War II, how the winemakers themselves weathered the war, and how the greatest bottles in the united states were often saved by good old-fashioned ingenuity, bravery, as well as an appreciation for how much they designed to the beleaguered country. So when you might assume, the book is best enjoyed alongside a nice glass of wine. French, of course.
What was I drinking while reading the book? Herman Story 2005 Grenache from Santa Ynez Valley in California.
I really like this wine-let’s just input it out there and avoid all that wine-writing propriety and distance. And the funny thing is that it’s not in the style I typically gravitate towards, Old World guy that I am. But this inky, big-boned monster is indeed well constructed (making no mistake about this: it’s an edifice of wine) that I couldn’t resist it.
At this point in its evolution, it’s still tight, and not giving much around the nose beyond its tea-like tannins and rich raspberry aromas. About the palate, it begins like one of those German kirsch-filled chocolates, but once it breathes a little it gains complex notes of superripe dark berries along with a rich plums.
At 15.9% alcohol, it feels a little heavy in the mouth, as well as the sweetness from all that alcohol is unavoidable, but this is no over-the-top fruit bomb: The tannins continue to be young and have some serious grip, and there’s enough acid here to lead me to believe that this wine will be even better in a few years.
Brian Freedman
If you have the patience, it will be rewarded. Personally, I’m glad I got myself a bunch of bottles: Following their evolution needs to be a lot of fun.